The Sounds of the South Island: 5-Day Itinerary
By Dana Williamson (@wanderingdonut)
The South Island of New Zealand has a way of making you feel small in the best way possible. Towering peaks, endless waterfalls, and landscapes so wild they look untouched by time. Over five incredible days, my journey in the Polaris 2 took me through some of the most breathtaking spots in Fiordland, proving that the best way to experience this part of the world is by road.
Day 1: Queenstown to Milford Sound
The weather in and around Fiordland can be quite wild and unpredictable. With that, we decided to save our scenic lookouts for the way back since this trip is a loop back to Queenstown as we had already been alerted that a storm was on its way and roads in/out of Milford Sound would be closed early in the afternoon.
Luckily, we had a really good run from Queenstown so the closer we got to the gates, we couldn't help but sneak in a few lookouts along the way. Even more so as we made it through to the Milford Side with waterfalls galore and likely a Kea doing something cheeky no matter where you look.
Although it is that first glimpse of it all as you come through the Homer Tunnel that is my favourite, especially in the snow/rain!
Highlights:
- Eglinton
- Valley
- Christie Falls
- Tutoko River Bridge
Stay:
Milford Sound Lodge (Powered Site)
This is the ONLY place you can legally camp in Milford Sound! It was the most amazing campground I have ever been to with everything from heated towel racks to towering mountings full of waterfalls everywhere you look. You are truly in the heart of it here.
They send regular updates about weather and road closures direct to your emails, so you are up to date and very well looked after by the onsite team.
Tips:
- It is worth grabbing groceries in either Queenstown or Te Anau on your way to Milford as options in the Sounds are limited/non-existent.
- Take your time on these roads. They can get windy, steep, and slippery. Pull over into the scenic lookout spots as much as you need even if it is to take a break or let cars pass.
- If you are worried about driving alongside the big tour buses and convoys of day trippers, plan your drive into Milford in the afternoon.
Day 2: Exploring Milford Sound
This 8th Wonder of the World is most popular for day trippers and tour groups, but nothing can beat the feeling of having it all to yourself to stay for a night or two. Although I recommend 2 or more to give yourself the most flexibility around weather and those road closures!
While we were hounded by crazy winds and torrential rain overnight, we woke up to clearing skies that revealed the most insane curtain of waterfalls towering around us. The perfect view to sit in the Polaris 2 and have a coffee to start the day.
As easy as it would be to relax here all day, the main attraction of Milford Sound is a quick drive or slightly slower walk up the road to the main Freshwater Basin.
Not only is this where all the Milford Sound Cruises are but also the most iconic viewpoints of Fiordland like the Milford Swing, Mitre Peak and Milford Sound Foreshore Walk.
Speaking of cruises, let's jump on board!
Originally, we were looking to do this another day of our trip but I am so glad we held off so we could adjust to weather conditions. With the roads still closed until midday it meant we were able to get on to a last-minute day cruise without the crowds. A huge perk of staying at the lodge here!
This is an absolute must in New Zealand. You could go on a cruise every day and have a completely unique experience and see something new (likely a waterfall since hundreds come and go throughout the year). It is pure magic.
Afterwards, we paid for an extra hour of parking to do the foreshore walk and find the iconic swing! As another storm swept in, we settled back into our site. Finishing off the day with a cocktail at the Lodge restaurant and a games night back in our Polaris 2.
Highlights:
- Milford Sound Foreshore Walk
- The Milford Swing
- Scenic cruise through the fjord
Stay:
Milford Sound Lodge
Tips:
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Book your cruise last-minute to adjust for weather and avoid crowds.
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There’s free parking halfway between the lodge and cruise terminal, but the $10/hour paid parking at the waterfront is worth it for convenience.
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We packed a Nintendo switch that was perfect to link up to our TV for a game night during the storm.
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Bring sandfly repellent, they can get brutal out here, even in bad weather. conditions.
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Bad weather has a different definition in Milford Sound. It is a little strange, but you actually WANT rain here to see the waterfalls come to life.
Day 3: Milford Sound to Te Anau/Manapouri
After another night of road closures, this time for SNOW near the tunnel, we managed to sneak through just as they reopened in the morning.
This time at a slower pace to 'stop and smell the roses' as they say.
Stops along the way:
- Hundred Falls
- The Chasm
- Mirror Lakes (my favourite but you will want to go on a clear, wind-free day for the best clarity)
Te Anau was the perfect stop for lunch/afternoon tea. With a quick grocery top up, walk around the park and stroll through the town before checking in to our next powered site up the road at Manapouri
Stay:
Manapouri Holiday Park
A peaceful spot with lake views and an ideal location for the next day’s adventure.
Tips:
- Be aware of Keas. They will fly around your Star RV and start picking apart the lining. These cheeky birds were EVERYWHERE.
- Stay in Te Anau if you want a wider range of restaurants and activities. However, for the night with a full stocked van, we loved the quieter side of Manapouri. With a view directly over the lake and easy access to our doubtful sound cruise the next day, it was perfect!
- Te Anau has a great public bathroom right by the waterfront with hotel showers.
Day 4: Doubtful Sound Overnight Cruise
Waking up to a beautiful sunrise over the lake, we swing our back doors right open to soak it all up. The morning breeze was chilly, but the coffee was hot. There was a sense of calm mixed with the building excitement for our next adventure.
After a slow morning, we made our way to the Manapouri Visitors Centre to check in for a huge bucket list experience. Now don't get me wrong, Milford Sound is magic and still absolutely worth the stop BUT Doubtful Sound is the underrated bigger brother.
You may wonder why you would want to do an overnight cruise if you are on a road trip? But trust me when I say it is so worth it!
The good news is there is free overnight parking at the Visitors Centre too.
One ferry and scenic bus ride later you settle into your home for the night and set sail.
With everything from an afternoon kayak, penguin and seal spotting, a cold plunge into the sound and of course some more snacks, there is something for everyone to feel like a kid again in the best way possible.
After sightseeing that will have you trying to pick your jaw up off the floor for the rest of your life, the night wraps down with a delicious feast.
Stay:
Doubtful Sound Overnight Cruise
Tips:
- There is Daytime car parking at the Manapouri Visitor Centre. But if you are doing an overnight cruise, you'll want to make the most of the free Overnight car parking available on View St, a short 2-minute walk away.
- Unlike what I recommend for Milford Sound, you will want to pre-book your Doubtful Overnight Cruise in advance.
Day 5: Return to Queenstown
There is nothing quite like waking up to nothing but the sound of the sounds. Try to wake up before the boat turns on to catch the sunrise in silence, apart from a few birds or even dolphins splashing by.
It's a completely different landscape and scene in the morning with the most gorgeous glow unlike anywhere else in the world. The mountains aren't as steep, but they are still just as grand as Milford, in their own unique way.
Although it is impossible to compare them... I guess that's why I am here to convince you to add both to your next trip!
It is a bittersweet goodbye as it is an unbelievably beautiful journey on the way out you don't want it to end but are itching to see the next part of it. Before you know it, you will be back with your Star RV ready to hit the road again. This time with no rush we could enjoy every moment.
The beauty of this trip is that there are so many surprise pull-ins and lookouts that you can swing into like:
- Devil’s Staircase Lookout.
- Kingston (there is freedom camping available here).
- Garston Hunny Shop.
Tips:
- Shop at Pak'n'Save to receive a petrol voucher. We also found it to be the best place to fill up near Queenstown Airport.
- If you’re continuing, this trip easily connects to a Queenstown to Christchurch itinerary.
Final Thoughts
There’s a reason Fiordland is one of the most iconic regions in New Zealand. It has a way of making you feel completely immersed in nature. This trip was a whirlwind of misty fjords, unexpected waterfalls, cheeky Keas, and road trip moments I’ll cherish forever. Whether it’s your first time visiting or you’ve been before, I promise, there’s always something new to discover.
If you want to know more about our trip, check out our Star Story